The Tudor ‘MN’ Military Submariner

The relationship between Tudor and the French Navy, or Marine Nationale, is one of the most storied partnerships in military horology. Beginning in 1956, Tudor supplied watches for field testing to Groupe d’Étude et de Recherches Sous-Marines (G.E.R.S.), a research and development arm of the Marine Nationale focused on underwater exploration and combat diving. The first model references, 7922 and 7923, underwent rigorous trials before receiving approval by the French Navy. This endorsement marked the beginning of an official supplier relationship in 1961, a collaboration that would continue into the early 1980s and then be reignited in 2021.

The Tudor Pelagos FXD worn by Commando Hubert (Image: Tudor Collector/CH)

Tudor’s Marine Nationale Submariners were exclusively issued to navy divers, commandos, and special forces operators, serving as essential tools in underwater missions. Over the years, Tudor refined its dive watch designs based on the feedback and revised requirements of the Marine Nationale, leading to some of the most iconic military-issued dive watches ever produced.

What makes a Tudor an MN?
For collectors and enthusiasts, true Marine Nationale-issued Tudor watches have an unmistakable identity shaped by their military provenance, specific references, and unique configurations that evolved over nearly three decades of service. Unlike Rolex Submariners issued to the UK forces which featured attributes unique to ‘issued’ watches, Tudor MN Submariners were indistinguishable from their civilian counterparts until 1974. Below is a summary of key references issued to the French Navy, along with the configurations that define each period.

References Issued to the Marine Nationale
7922 Small Crown (1956–1957)
7923 Small Crown (1956)
7922 Big Crown (1957–1958, prototype cases based on Rolex 6538)
7924 Big Crown (1958–1959)
7928 Crown Guard Submariner (1959–1968)
7016 Snowflake (1974–1975, black dial)
9401 Snowflake (1975–early 1980s, blue dial)
9401 Mercedes hands and Triangle Markers (early 1980s, blue dial)

Key Configurations by Era

1956 – Reference 7922 (First Batch, Small Crown)
The first Tudor Submariners delivered to the Marine Nationale in 1956 were designated as model reference 7922. These watches featured black gilt dials marked 100m, Mercedes hands, and a 6mm Rolex winding crown. This was the batch tested by G.E.R.S. before Tudor became an official supplier to the French Navy.

A Tudor Submariner 7922 (Image: Tudor Watch)

1956 – Reference 7923 (Manual Wind, Small Crown)
Delivered alongside reference 7922, the reference 7923 was also issued. These watches featured black gilt dials marked 100m, pencil hands, and a 6mm Rolex winding crown. The dials did not feature the word PRINCE, which signified that the watch had a manual wind movement, as Prince was Tudor’s equivalent of Rolex’s Perpetual.

A Tudor Submariner 7923 (Image: Tudor Watch)

1957 – Reference 7922 (Big Crown Prototype Cases)
In 1957, Tudor experimented with a new design in response to Marine Nationale feedback for a more robust case with an easier to operate winding crown, by repurposing Rolex Submariner 6538 cases. These watches were fitted with Tudor dials and movements, but retained their original Rolex serial numbers, with the 6538 reference re-engraved as 7922 between the lugs. The case backs had 6538 crossed out and 7922 punched above. These watches kept a 7922 100m dial but were capable of diving to a depth of 200m thanks to the Rolex case, Mercedes pattern hands, and an 8mm Rolex winding crown.

The inner case back of the 7922 Big Crown (Image: RPR)

1958 – Reference 7924 (Big Crown)
Following the success of the reworked 7922, Tudor introduced the 7924 in 1958, the first Submariner officially rated to 200m. Fitted with gilt dials marked 200s and Mercedes hands and like the previous experimental batch, it featured an 8mm Rolex winding crown.

A Tudor Submariner 7924 (Image: Tudor Collector/Luca Garbati)

1959 – Reference 7928 (Crown Guard Case)
By 1959, Tudor introduced the 7928, marking a major design shift with the addition of crown guards. This model evolved through four variations of crown guards: Square, Eagle Beak, Pointed, and Rounded crown guards. Alongside these case modifications, the 7928 initially featured a gilt black 200m dial, Mercedes hands, and a 7mm Rolex winding crown. This model remained in production for over a decade and the dials transitioned to matte dials from glossy dials in the mid to late 1960s.

A first series ‘Square Guard’ Tudor Submariner 7928 (Image: Tudor Collector/Luca Garbati)

A ‘Pointed Crown Guard’ Tudor Submariner 7928 (Image: Tudor Watch)

1974 – Reference 7016 (First Snowflake MN Watches)
The arrival of the 7016 in 1974 signalled a new era for Marine Nationale Tudors. This was the first reference to feature the now-iconic Snowflake hands, developed in direct response to requests for improved underwater legibility. The early 7016s were fitted with black dials and black bezel inserts, paired with square marker dials. These watches retained the 7mm Rolex winding crown. Crucially, this was also the first reference to feature the hallmark MN case back engravings, with issued examples engraved MN74. Watches from this batch generally fall within the 827xxx serial range.

The first black Snowflake Submariner 7016 (Image: Tudor Watch)

1975 – Reference 9401 (Blue Snowflake MN Watches)
In 1975, Tudor introduced the reference 9401, which became the definitive Marine Nationale Tudor for many collectors. These watches featured blue dials with matching blue bezel inserts, Snowflake hands, and the same square marker dial layout as the earlier 7016. The 7mm Rolex winding crown remained unchanged. These watches were issued through the early 1980s and continued the MN case back engraving tradition.

The iconic blue Snowflake Submariner 9401 issued to the MN (Image: Christoper Beccan)

Early 1980s – Reference 9401 (Blue Mercedes hands MN Watches)
By the early 1980s, the last generation of Marine Nationale Tudors transitioned to a new dial configuration. These late 9401s featured blue dials and bezel inserts but reverted to Mercedes pattern hands, paired with a triangle marker dial layout. The 7mm Rolex winding crown remained a consistent feature. These were among the last Tudors officially issued to the Marine Nationale before the relationship came to an end.

Key Features of MN-Issued Watches
Determining whether a Tudor Submariner was officially issued to the Marine Nationale can be challenging. Unlike many military-issued timepieces that came with standardised documentation, Marine Nationale Tudors were tools of the trade, utilitarian watches issued directly to Navy divers and commandos with little concern for future collectability.

One of the most important sources for verifying an MN-issued Tudor comes from a Rolex watchmaker based in Toulon, who meticulously recorded every Marine Nationale Tudor that passed through his workshop for servicing. However, it is crucial to note that these records only account for watches issued to the southern base in Toulon. There are no surviving records for watches issued in northern France, making verification for those examples much more difficult.

The full ledger book from Toulon, listing all the MN watches serviced (Image: RPR)

An example of a page from the ledger (redacted serials). For example, line 206 shows a Tudor with serial 912xxx issued to Commando Hubert (Image: Watch My Watch)

For models issued before 1974, the only definitive way to confirm an MN-issued watch is if it appears in the Toulon watchmaker’s ledgers. Watches from this period lack military engravings, meaning provenance and historical documentation are essential.

From 1974 to 1982, Marine Nationale Tudors featured distinct case back engravings, making them far easier to identify. These engravings followed a standardised format with the letters MN followed by the year of issue. The placement of the engraving varied slightly over the years:
1974 – MN 74 – Center of case back
1975 – MN 1975 – Center of case back (the only year with the full year engraved)
1976 – MN 76 – Center of case back
1977 – MN 77 – Center of case back
1978 – MN 78 – Bottom of case back
1979 to 1982 – MN 79, 80, 81, 82 – Center of case back

A Submariner 7016 issued in 1974 (Image: Tudor Collector)

A Submariner 9401 issued in 1975 – note the long form date that was only used in 1975 (Image: Tudor Collector)

A Submariner 9401 issued in 1978 (Image: Christoper Beccan)

While these engravings provide strong evidence of Marine Nationale provenance, collectors should always be mindful of originality. Over the decades, some watches have had their engravings polished off or case backs swapped during service. As always with military watches, careful research and authentication remain key.

The Modern Evolution: The Pelagos FXD

In May 2021, Tudor reaffirmed its historical connection with the Marine Nationale, announcing an official partnership with the French Navy. While the brand had long celebrated its military heritage—most notably with the Black Bay Fifty-Eight—the launch of the Pelagos FXD marked a significant return to true military collaboration. Unlike previous releases that paid homage to the past, the FXD was designed specifically for modern Marine Nationale divers, tailored to the operational needs of Commando Hubert, the elite combat swimmer unit of the French Navy.

A Command Hubert delivered Pelagos FXD. Note the two-line dial. (Image: Monaco Legend Group)

Whilst the FXD is very much a watch designed with the Marine Nationale, the actual watches delivered to the Commando Hubert divers differ from those sold by official Tudor retailers. The most obvious difference is the dial. Devoid of any mention of chronometer certification, the issued watches display a stripped-back aesthetic, featuring only PELAGOS and 200m—not even the imperial 600ft depth rating. This no-nonsense approach to the dial design reinforces the FXD’s role as a purpose-built military tool.

The standard production civilian Pelagos FXD with four-line dial (Image: Tudor Watch)

The case back is also significantly different. One of the most distinctive elements of the retail FXD is the engraved MN case back, a direct nod to the hallmark case back engravings found on vintage Marine Nationale Tudors from the 1970s and 1980s. These historical engravings consisted of MN followed by a short-form year, such as MN74 for 1974 or MN76 for 1976. (A small but interesting detail—only in 1975 did Tudor engrave the full year, marking watches as MN 1975.) The retail FXDs continue this tradition, with watches produced in 2021 engraved MN21, followed by MN22 in 2022, and so on. However, the actual issued watches used by Commando Hubert divers feature a much more stripped-back case back, engraved with only the year and a small issue number, reinforcing their utilitarian nature.

Finally, the reference number of the issued watches is ‘25797’ where the civilian reference is ‘25707’.

A Commando Hubert delivered two-line FXD with delivery paperwork (Image: Daniel Bourn)

The FXD retains the core characteristics that made Marine Nationale Tudors iconic: a robust, functional design, lightweight materials, and fixed strap bars for added durability. With its 42mm titanium case, ultra-legible dial, and bi-directional countdown bezel—specifically designed for underwater navigation—it is a modern-day MilSub, not just a marketing exercise. It embodies Tudor’s historical relationship with the Marine Nationale while proving that the collaboration remains as functional today as it was in the 1950s.

For collectors and enthusiasts, Marine Nationale Tudors remain among the most desirable tool watches on the market. Whether it’s the patinated charm of an original “M.N.”-engraved 7016 or the cutting-edge engineering of the Pelagos FXD, these watches embody the perfect balance of heritage, functionality, and military precision.

By Ross Povey for Daniel Bourn. 

Ross Povey is a journalist, editor and founder of tudorcollector.com. He is internationally recognised as the leading authority on vintage Tudor watches and a key figure in the Tudor collecting community.

© Copyright Daniel Bourn www.danielbourn.com

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The Rolex ‘Military’ Submariner

The Rolex Military Submariner

In 1972 the Rolex Submariner replaced the Omega Seamaster as the watch of choice for its the UK military by the Ministry of Defence (MOD). Military specification Rolex Submariners (often referred to as ‘Milsubs’ by collectors) were then delivered to the British Ministry of Defence (MOD) by the Rolex Watch Company and made available to both the UKSF Special Boat Service (SBS) and Special Air Service (SAS) divers.

The features of the Rolex military Submariner differed to the standard production Rolex Submariner sold by Rolex via their authorised retail outlets, as the military versions were modified to meet the needs of the MOD elite units specific requirements.

Approximately 1200 modified military specification Rolex Submariners were delivered by Rolex to the Royal Navy & British Army between 1972 and 1979.

Due to their use in challenging environments, the survival rate for Milsubs in their original configuration is low. Thus rarity along with their fascinating and important military provenance is the reason they have become so sought after by vintage and military watch collectors.

Rolex Military Submariner

The Model References

The original Rolex military Submariners were issued using 3 different references 5513, 5513/5517 (referred to as a double reference) and 5517. Each reference is engraved as follows:-

5513 (engraved between the lugs at 12:00)
5513/5517 (5513 engraved between the lugs at 12:00 and 5517 engraved under the 7:00 lug)
5517 (engraved between the lugs at 12:00)

NOTE: Whereas model reference. 5513 was a modified version of the existing standard production Rolex Submariner, model ref. 5517 was unique to the military Submariner. This particular model reference was never sold commercially, and thus has become the most sought after of the 3 references by collectors.

Fixed bars

Full Specification

Each reference of the Rolex military Submariner has the same modified specification:

  • A 600 ft = 200m matt dial with circled T – denoting the use of Tritium within the luminous compound
  • Sword or gladiator Hands – for greater visibility
  • A continually graduated 60 minute bezel – for more accurate measurement of time underwater
  • Anti reflective satin case finish
  • Military fixed bars – for enhanced durability, to be used in conjunction with an admiralty strap
  • Military, crown property and unique issue, case back engravings

As mentioned earlier due to the conditions they were often exposed to, Milsubs would need to be serviced more regularly than their standard civilian counterparts. Unfortunately this resulted in far fewer watches surviving in their original configuration. Watches in original condition with the full military specification as defined above continue therefore to attract significant premiums.

The Dials

The dials of the Rolex issued military Submariner were standard Submariner dials with a circled T added below the hands and before the ‘SUBMARINER’ model designation.

Between 1972 and 1979, 4 versions of dials were used, as follows:-

Serif

Non Serif

Smudge Crown

Maxi Mk 1

The different dial types were not exclusive to any particular model reference but were relevant to the date of issue of the watch. For example a ‘serif’ dial should really be found on particular batches of the model ref. 5513 until 1977, and then the last batch of 3.9 million double references (5513/5517) issued in 1979. The ‘non-serif’ dial is most often found on watches with serials in the 3.7 and 3.8 million range. The so-called ‘smudge’ or ‘pre-comex’ dials are generally found on watches issued circa 1976/77. The ‘maxi’ dial will feature on watches issued from 1977 onwards. It should be noted that variations on the above exist, as dials may have been swapped or replaced during servicing, especially by MOD watchmakers.

Outer Case Backs

The outer case back on a correct full specification Rolex Milsub will be engraved, depending on whether it was a British Navy (0552) or British Army (W10) issue.

Contrary to popular belief all watches would have been used for diving, as although the W10 deliveries were Army or SAS issue, during the 1970s both units were trained divers, thus the watches were available to divers of either unit.

0552 (RN MOD service code)
923-7697 (NATO code for divers watches)
Broad Arrow
Issue Number / Year for Issue
OR
W10 (MOD code for the Army)
6645 (NATO code for time measuring instruments)
99 (NATO code UK)
923-7697 (NATO code for divers watches)
Broad Arrow
Issue Number / Year for Issue

Milsub engravings

Inner Case Backs

The inner case back on a correct Rolex Milsub will include the following engravings:-

  • Model ref. ‘5513’
  • Date of case/case back manufacture
  • Serial number matching the case (depending on the particular batch. Some known batches did not have the case serial number engraved in the case back)

IMPORTANT: Milsubs sometimes surface with mis-matching serials in the case back, meaning that at some point the case back of one Milsub was incorrectly fitted to the case of another during service by MOD or independent watchmaker. Whilst the mistake is easy to understand, it has a significant impact on the value and desirability of the watch.

Documentation

The original 1970s military Rolex Submariner special deliveries to the MOD for issue to the UKSF were not delivered with the traditional box and papers which accompany the standard model Submariners sold via retailers. However some later documentation can accompany watches which is of particular interest to collectors. This is either in the form of:

  • Documented provenance from the original owner on his service as well as photographs and dive logs. It must be noted though that due to the covert nature of the original owners occupation many prefer to remain anonymous, thus documentation is not easy to acquire.
  • Rolex delivery confirmation letters signed by the former general manager of Rolex UK, Henry Hudson.

In the 1970s it was Mr Hudson’s department who were responsible for delivering the military spec Submariner to the UK military. Although later assuming the post of general manager of Rolex UK, he still retained the original delivery information for each of the issued watches (serial, case back number, unit or dockyard) and until his retirement a few years ago would kindly provide the information where available to owners of the watch via a signed letter on Rolex headed paper.

Unfortunately since his retirement this service is no longer possible. Rolex no longer confirm the original delivery information. Whilst watches with the HH papers as they are referred to do not carry a significant financial premium, collectors like the re-assurance relating to the original issue that it offers. However perfectly correct and collectable examples will continue to surface in the market, sans paper. That does not mean they should not be acquired and enjoyed. We would just advise and recommend that you consult with one of a handful of known specialists (ourselves included) who have been collating the model ref, serial, case back and delivery information for many years and should be able to reassure you regarding the batch that your watch belongs to and any specific nuances you should expect to find.

© Copyright  Daniel Bourn www.danielbourn.com

We are always pleased to hear from original owners and watch collectors. If you would like to discuss, learn, or SELL your vintage military-issued Rolex, Tudor, Omega, or Blancpain timepiece, please don’t hesitate to contact us:

CH/ROW enquiries:

Email
Call or Whatsapp
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ch@danielbourn.com
+41 79 515 1922
@daniel.bourn

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