Our 5 Favourite New Books on Watches

Hodinkee Book Feature

The Collections Vol. I Featured on HODINKEE

HODINKEE recently included The Collections Vol. I by Daniel Bourn in their 2025 Recommended Reading list, recognizing it as one of the most insightful new books on watch collecting.


🔗 Read the full feature on HODINKEE

The Rolex ‘Military’ Submariner

In 1972, the Rolex Submariner replaced the Omega Seamaster as the watch of choice for the UK military, as specified by the Ministry of Defence (MoD). Military-specification Rolex Submariners (often referred to as MilSubs by collectors) were delivered to the MoD by the Rolex Watch Company and issued to both the UK Special Forces (UKSF), Special Boat Service (SBS) and Special Air Service (SAS) divers.

The features of the military Rolex Submariner differed from those of the standard production Submariner sold through authorised retail outlets, as the military versions were modified to meet the specific requirements of the MoD’s elite units.

Approximately 1,200 modified, military-specification Rolex Submariners were delivered by Rolex to the Royal Navy and British Army between 1972 and 1979.

Due to their use in challenging environments, the survival rate of MilSubs in their original configuration is low. This rarity, combined with their fascinating and important military provenance, is the reason they have become so sought after by vintage and military watch collectors.


A full-spec MilSub reference 5513 (Image: The Collections Vol I)

The Model References

The original Rolex military Submariners were issued using three different references 5513, 5513/5517 (referred to as a double reference) and 5517. Each reference is engraved as follows:-

  • 5513                (engraved between the lugs at 12:00)
  • 5513/5517     (5513 engraved between the lugs at 12:00, and 5517 engraved below the 7:00 lug)
  • 5517                (engraved between the lugs at 12:00)

Note: Whereas model reference 5513 was a modified version of the existing standard-production Rolex Submariner, model reference 5517 was unique to the military Submariner. This particular reference was never sold commercially and has therefore become the most sought-after of the three references among collectors.


The 5517 engraving on the lug of a double reference 5513/5517 (Image: The Collections Vol I)

Full Specification

Each reference of the Rolex Military Submariner shared the same modified specifications:

  • A 600 ft = 200 m matte dial with a circled ‘T’, denoting the use of tritium in the luminous compound
  • Sword or ‘gladiator’ hands for greater visibility
  • A continuously graduated 60-minute bezel insert for more accurate time measurement underwater
  • An anti-reflective satin case finish
  • Military fixed bars for enhanced durability, designed for use with an Admiralty strap
  • Military, crown property, and unique issue case-back engravings

As mentioned above, due to the harsh conditions they were often exposed to, MilSubs required servicing more frequently than their standard civilian counterparts. Unfortunately, this has resulted in far fewer watches surviving in their original configuration. Watches that remain in original condition, with the full military specification as defined above, therefore continue to attract significant premiums.


The MoD-specified continuously graduated 60-minute bezel insert (Image: The Collections Vol I)

The Dials

The dials of the issued Rolex military Submariner were standard Submariner dials, modified with a circled ‘T’ placed below the hands and above the SUBMARINER model designation.

Between 1972 and 1979, four dial variations were used, as follows:

Serif

Non Serif

Smudge Crown

Maxi Mk 1

The different dial types were not exclusive to any particular model reference but were relevant to the date of issue of the watch. For example, a serif dial should typically be found on certain batches of model reference 5513 until 1977, and on the final batch of 3.9 million double references (5513/5517) issued in 1979. The non-serif dial is most often found on watches with serial numbers in the 3.7 and 3.8 million range. The so-called smudge or pre-Comex dials are generally found on watches issued circa 1976/77. The maxi dial appears on watches issued from 1977 onwards.

It should be noted that variations on the above exist, as dials may have been swapped or replaced during servicing, especially by MoD watchmakers.


A full-spec MilSub reference 5517 with maxi dial (Image: The Collections Vol I)

Outer Case Backs

The outer case back on a correct, full-specification Rolex MilSub was engraved according to whether it was a British Navy (0552) or British Army (W10) issue.

Contrary to popular belief, all watches would have been used for diving. Although the W10 deliveries were Army or SAS issue, during the 1970s, both units trained as divers, and the watches were therefore available to divers from either branch.

Royal Navy (0552 issue):

  • 0552 (RN MOD service code)
  • 923-7697 (NATO code for divers’ watches)
  • Broad Arrow
  • Issue number / Year of issue

British Army (W10 issue):

  • W10 (MOD code for the Army)
  • 6645 (NATO code for time-measuring instruments)
  • 99 (NATO code for the UK)
  • 923-7697 (NATO code for divers’ watches)
  • Broad Arrow
  • Issue number / Year of issue


An Army-issued case back (Image: The Collections Vol I)

Inner Case Backs

The inner case back on a correct Rolex MilSub will include the following engravings:

  • Model ref. ‘5513’
  • Date of case/case back manufacture
  • Serial number matching the case (depending on the particular batch. Some known batches did not have the case serial number engraved in the case back)

Important: MilSubs sometimes surface with mismatching serials in the case back, meaning that at some point the case back of one MilSub was incorrectly fitted to the case of another during service by MoD or independent watchmaker. Whilst the mistake is easy to understand, it has a significant impact on the value and desirability of the watch.

Documentation

The original 1970s military Rolex Submariner deliveries to the MoD, for issue to the UKSF, were not supplied with the typical box and papers that accompanied standard Submariners sold through retailers. However, later documentation can accompany these watches, which are of particular interest to collectors. This documentation generally takes the form of:

  • Documented provenance from the original owner, such as details of service, photographs, and dive logs. It must be noted, however, that due to the covert nature of their occupations, many original owners prefer to remain anonymous, making such documentation difficult to acquire.
  • A Rolex delivery confirmation letter signed by the former General Manager of Rolex UK, Henry Hudson.

In the 1970s, Mr. Hudson’s department was responsible for delivering the military-specification Submariner to the UK military. Although he later assumed the role of General Manager of Rolex UK, he continued to retain the original delivery records for each issued watch (including serial number, case-back number, and unit or dockyard). Until his retirement in 2011, he would often kindly provide this information, where available, to owners of a MilSub via a signed letter on Rolex-headed paper.


A pair of full-spec MilSubs with original Admiralty straps and Henry Hudson letter (Image: The Collections Vol I)

Unfortunately, since his retirement, this service is no longer available. Rolex no longer confirms the original delivery information. While watches accompanied by the “HH papers,” as they are commonly referred to, do not carry a significant financial premium, collectors value the reassurance regarding the original issue that such documentation provides.

Perfectly correct and collectible examples continue to surface on the market without papers. This does not mean they should not be acquired and enjoyed. We recommend consulting one of a handful of known specialists (ourselves included) who have been collating model reference, serial, case-back, and delivery information for many years. Such experts can provide reassurance regarding the batch to which your watch belongs and any specific nuances you should expect to find.

© Copyright  Daniel Bourn www.danielbourn.com

If you would like to discuss, learn, or SELL your vintage military-issued Rolex, Tudor, Omega, or Blancpain timepiece, please don’t hesitate to contact us:

info@danielbourn.com
+44 7977 469 568
@daniel.bourn

Receive the latest watch content – straight to your inbox. SUBSCRIBE here

Milsub advert